Drills Haisser

Haisser: reliable drilling without overpaying

What a drill is and how it differs from a drill-driver

A drill is the baseline tool for making holes, and it's usually the first tool in any home or professional collection. Unlike a drill-driver with electronic torque control, a classic impact drill is built primarily for drilling: it has a simpler mode-switching mechanism, typically higher maximum speed, and a chuck built for regular high-load use.

The Haisser line-up in this category

Haisser's range in this category includes three impact drills of increasing power: the ID-10S at 1000 W with up to 3100 rpm, the ID-11SM at 1100 W with a slightly lower 2900 rpm, and the ID-12SM at 1200 W — the most powerful model in the line. Power directly affects the bit diameter the tool can handle comfortably without overheating the motor: the entry model handles bits up to 10-13 mm in wood and metal well, while the most powerful one is built for regular drilling of larger diameters and harder materials, including concrete in impact mode.

The impact mode in Haisser drills works through a mechanical cam mechanism that adds axial pulses to chuck rotation while drilling — critical for brick or concrete, where plain rotation without an impact pulse quickly wears the cutting edge without making progress into the hole. A drilling/hammer-drilling mode switch lets you adapt the tool to the material instantly, without swapping accessories or extra setup.

Impact mode, chuck and speed control

The keyless chuck on Haisser models handles bit shanks up to 13 mm, covering the vast majority of household and semi-professional tasks. Trigger-based speed control lets you fine-tune drilling speed smoothly — especially important at the start of a hole, when the bit isn't yet seated in the material and can easily skid sideways, leaving a scratch or an inaccurate hole on a visible surface.

Choosing a model by power should follow the type of work you do most: for point drilling for anchors, mounting cornices or shelves, the entry-level ID-10S is more than enough, while regular work with concrete walls or larger-diameter drilling calls for the reserve power of the ID-12SM, which reduces motor load and extends its life over the same volume of work.

Service life, ergonomics, and choosing by power

Haisser drill housings are made from impact-resistant plastic with a rubberized grip, cutting vibration during extended drilling and improving hold when wearing gloves or in wet conditions. An auxiliary side handle included with the more powerful models gives extra leverage when drilling large holes, where reaction torque from a binding bit can be significant.

Motor life depends directly on how often the tool runs near its capacity limit. A short-term overload — say, drilling a large-diameter hole with the entry model — is usually harmless thanks to thermal margin in the windings, but systematic operation near the power ceiling wears brushes and bearings several times faster than a tool chosen with margin to spare. That's why investing in a model one power class above the bare minimum often pays off in service life.

For home use — drilling for furniture fixings, mounting shelves, small repairs — the ID-10S or ID-11SM is more than enough, and there's no reason to pay extra for the ID-12SM if the main load is a few holes a week. For regular work with concrete walls, building partitions or widening holes for utilities, it's worth going straight for the most powerful model in the line, since the price gap between models is far smaller than the cost of prematurely replacing a motor worn out by constant overload.

Consider, too, how the switch between drilling and hammer-drilling mode holds up under repeated use, since a mechanism that loosens over time will start slipping between modes exactly when the operator least expects it — mid-hole in a hard wall, for instance. Haisser secures this switch with a spring-loaded detent rather than a friction fit alone, which keeps the selected mode locked in through months of daily use rather than a few weeks.

Pick a Haisser drill by power to match the materials you typically work with, and get a tool that handles the job on the first try, without overpaying for capability that will never be used.